A quiet week - Mackay to Rockhampton

S 23⁰09’70’’, E 150⁰47’10’’

 

Mackay to Yeppoon (Rosslyn Bay)

A "quiet" week with friends Marion and Richard aboard as we headed south down the Queensland coast in mostly near perfect conditions – N to NE winds, light 10-12Kts, with the odd day of 18-20Kts, which added a few thrills. More of that later.

The Kirra Kirrians get some ships biscuits and rum into us at the Eimeo pub,
before casting lines.

 

We headed out of Mackay harbour at a very civilised hour, replenished with liquid refreshments and what seemed like half a ton of ice, arriving at isolated Curlew Is. (44nM) in time for a good walk and swim off the beach. Quiet night aboard (such things are relative), with BBQ and only a few bottles of vino.

Beach at Curlew Island, with magnificent rock bluff.
Note the turtle tracks up and then down the beach
- its nesting time for the Green turtles to lay eggs on /in the beach.

 

Next overnight anchorage was the isolated Duke Isles, anchoring at the bottom of Hunter Is., again swims off boat and Richard caught a nice coral trout dinghy trolling over the reef . Fantastic volcanic larva shapes on these islands. A big fish banquet of coral trout and Spanish mackerel washed down with mainly soda water (not). Have readers noticed how spirit bottles seem to be getting smaller?

Just relaxing while trolling.

Now where is the next anchorage?

Debate amongst the crew about anchorages

Hunter Island, Duke Group

It looked bigger in real life

 

An early start and an excellent spinnaker run down to Is. Head Creek, arriving at the right tide to set the crab pot. Another quiet night aboard. In this case yachtie's midnight, which is often said to be around 8pm was damn near midnight!

Sustenance, before weisswurst for lunch

 

A superb smooth downwind spinnaker run south for 7 hours, averaging about 8Kts, to arrive at Gt. Keppel Island again in time for swims. Fresh mud crab for dinner, great wines and company, sweet in every way.

Spinnaker set and looking good

What could possibly go wrong?

Making way - 10kts under spinnaker.
Kirra Kirra on rails

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fish? What fish?



Long Beach, Great Keppel Island late afternoon



Long Beach, Great Keppel Island late afternoon

West Bay, Great Keppel, near the ex resort

Still discussing anchorages?

GKI reef shot

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And then after swims and exploring and snorkelling some reefs on Gt Keppel Is. (GKI to all the locals), with the wind picking up to 18Kts, we spied a drifting $3.5 Mill Horizon 60’ power catamaran (see photo) which when it was 1nM off-shore and heading out to sea, we concluded required rescuing. Richard and I gave chase in the dinghy, found no-one aboard, considered all options and ended up boarding, raising the anchor and I motored it slowly back its starting point on GKI. The thrill was to drive this palatial vessel. The owner returned after it was made safe, and said his gruff thanks through embarrassed clenched teeth. Momentarily lusted after one of these power cats myself till I heard they burn fuel at 220 litres per hour (at 20+ knots).

Moral of this true story – when anchoring 40 tonnes of vessel, put out more than 15 metres of chain – even if it is in only 3 metres of water.  You are not anchoring a bloody dinghy!!

Rescued 60' power cat makes off, her tail firmly tucked between her hulls

And then followed the bumpiest sail in Kirra Kirra’s history in 20Kts rising to 26Kts (gusts to 30+) across the shallow waters of Rosslyn Bay to the marina.  Think Pt Phillip Bay in Victoria at its worst and you not quite there. And so into Rosslyn Bay marina – Yeppoon, which sounds like something out of the Goon Show. A great marina with ultra friendly staff and nice coffee and bar, plus a free (yes free) courtesy car to go shopping in.

Rosslyn Bay -Yeppoon marina (near Rockhampton).

 

And after all the excitement of rescuing boats and fast bumpy sails, would you believe another quiet night aboard  - no neither would anyone else.
Its worth noting the superb dinner:  Victorian grass-fed porterhouse steak, blue cheese stuffed mushrooms, quinoa stuffed peppers, and magnificent Queensland wine. Yes Q'land wine - Stanthorpe region Golden Grove tempranillo.   An excellent feast to cap off the week.

J&J, M&R, Kirra Kirra, Nov. 2014

And so we said fond farewells to Marion and Richard and with livers still intact (just) J&J continue to sail south along the Queensland coast. No longer in FNQ, we are on what is considered the central coast. Weather getting a bit warmer and a lot more humid. No real rain for many months.

Highlights of the past 2 weeks:

·         A not so quite quiet week of sailing and frolics with friends Marion and Richard aboard.

·         Superb long spinnaker runs down the coast – proving the value of asymmetric kites for downwind cruising.

·         Fishing and crabbing - some success with both.

·         Plenty of G&T’s and white rum mixers as heart starters.

·         Revisiting our favourite haunt – Island Head Creek

·         Getting to skipper a 60’ power cat - even if only for 20mins.

South from Cairns to Mackay

S 21 06.90’, E 149.13.48’ – check lat and long

 

Cairns to Mackay

We left Cairns and then dallied for a fun weekend of frolics at Fitzroy Island with friends Heidi and James and kids, and the Arjunians (Catherine David and kids) for time in the sun, chilling and supping the odd wine, on board and at Foxy’s bar. Great pizzas by James.

The tourists leave Fitzroy Is at 4pm and serenity descends

 

It’s a bit of an anti-climax now coming south, but the coast of FNQ (F stands for Far) is an excellent cruising ground. The winds have been mostly favourable E / NE and we headed south via Dunk Is and  then Zoe Bay on Hinchinbrook Island to Magnetic Is. just off Townsville, one of our favourite spots.

A tour of Maggie via the local bus, and brunch back at Horseshoe bay before sailing south on a lovely NE’er down to Cape Bowling Green. Then a good days sail to Gloucester Passage, location of Shag Islet  and home port of the Shaggers CYC (just google it if interested),  and a further days relaxing sail down to Macona Inlet where we met up with Robina and Brenton from RBYC.

Gaff rigged ketch off Maggie Is.

Black Bastard the feared pirate of Gloucester Passage.
Rumoured to have a huge motor and capable of 40Kts in pursuit of victims
 

Then into Airlie to do the mundane chores  - won't bore you with the details of boat washing and polishing and laundry. Worth a mention was the superb paella at Café Barcelona washed down with a white rioja.  Then a good fast sail to Tongue Bay, just around the corner from the famed Whitehaven Beach, (as featured in any tourist photo of the Whitsundays) and then some gentle day sails through the southerly Whitsunday Islands down to Mackay – we love  Shaw and Thomas islands.

Yachtie built cairns on Shaw Island.
Ours is the one in the middle.

At these islands the tranquil still of the evening is broken only by the whooshing sound of surfacing turtles and the occasional dolphin to pass wind – (ie breathe).

Some good day sails, and fish!! Yes changing the trolling lure set up (thanks Graham and others) has reaped rewards of some nice eating fish plus plenty of fun.

Shark on soft lure on hand line

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I catch and release all sharks
 so hopefully it will live to bite another day.

 

Frigate mackerel -
Unfortunately not a top table fish

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


The prized Spanish mackerel - very fine eating fish

Highlights of the past 2 weeks:

·         Fishing - succesfully

·        Nice leisurely sails south in 12-15Kt NE’ers. Makes a relaxed change from bashing south through the brisk 20Kt+ breezes up round Lizard Is. and Cooktown.

·        Revisiting our favourite old haunts – like Horseshoe Bay on Magnetic Is.

·        Catching up with cruising buddies, like the Shining Stars / Wet Bars, Chakanians, Arjunians.

The Chakanians and Kirra Kirrians

 

Lizard Island

S 14^o39’68’’, E 145^o27’16’’

LIZZY

Very nice - and accurate drawing of Kirra Kirra by Priscilla

A quick sail up to Lizard Island from Cooktown in the usual SE trade winds of 20+ Kts+– absolutely the norm for up here this time of year. 
This is as far north as we are heading up the east coast of Australia – this year.



Aboriginal burn off - to prevent huge bush fires
 in the dry season so in the long run probably limits CO2 release

Had to have a couple of goanna shots

He speaks with forked tongue

So over the past 2 years cruising we have travelled from 43⁰ South at Port Arthur  in Tasmania up to 14⁰ South here at Lizzy. That’s about 2000nM or 3600 Kms as the seagull might fly. Actual mileage travelled has been over 5000nM.

Lizard Is. is everything we had hoped – superb anchorage on clean sand in very clear water in Watson’s Bay, lots of different fish that like to hang around the boats looking for an easy feed, and plenty of reefs to snorkel. Unfortunately my underwater camera is still kaput, so no shots of the giant clams, nemo fish, painted crays, sting rays and black tipped reef sharks – which for those not sure in FNQ (Far North Queensland) are entirely harmless.

View of Watsons Bay from Cooks Look - not too crowded



Watsons Bay again - note Eagle Reef near the horizon.
About 10Kms away



Nice rock

It helps the fish numbers that most of Lizard Is. is a no-fishing zone, and I am wondering – how do fish know this – I reckon they can read. The fish that cruise the boats at anchor certainly have a memory longer than the reported 2 seconds of a gold fish.
Perhaps gold fish are the dumbos of the fish world.

Dick waving - look how big my anchor chain wash is on my 67ft Nordhavn.
Nordhavns - common as muck up here.



Blue Lagoon south of Lizzy



Flowering tree

The Lizard Island 5 star resort was wrecked in cyclone Ita in April ’14, and is currently under full refurbishment, but is not expected to be finished till 1Q ’15, so all you folks without a boat, if you want to see Lizard Is., get in and book the resort on its’ introductory specials. Sure to be less than $1000 / night.

J&J at Cooks Look

Back to basics - the pump helped eak out our water supply over 3+ weeks

Speeding to the Table of Knowledge

Kirra Kirra high and almost dry.
She received new prop anodes courtesy of the 2M tide at Lizzy

It’s a pristine island with little development other than the small resort. Apart from the local natural wonders, there is a superb night sky.

We stayed over 3 weeks, and the days were so busy!

Sailed out to the “Cod Hole” and picked up a mooring buoy and snorkelled in 10-12 metres of very very clear water with large rock cod of various types (1 metre or so, 50-80Kg) and schools of red bass (2kg) gathering under our boat plus the odd reef shark snoozing on the sand below – then a large bronzey coloured 3 metre noahs-ark came in and cruised up and down and that made me nervous enough to get out of the water till it buggered off. Was probably just curious, but I didn't want to find out that hard way.

AFL Grand Final day - a swim at every quarter break



A study in the Table of Knowledge: At the start of the session



Half time at the session



OMG- Not quite the end - but getting louder



Sunset at Watsons bay
Now I swore I would never take another bloody sunset shot
- but this one seemed special at Lizzy

Walks to :

• Cook’s Look, at 358M above sea-level, where Cpt James Cook walked to try and find a route out to the open sea past the myriad labyrinth of reefs of the Great Barrier Reef. Its such a great and historic walk I did it twice.  Cook named the island Lizard after the large numbers of “lizard” (ie goanna) – the Gould’s sand monitors still here in large numbers – they startle us as they take off right next to the walking tracks.  Now the size of the GBR as it is known up here is often talked about, but until  you see them first hand it is hard to appreciate.  Many of the individual coral reefs are well over 100 sq. kms in area. Incredible biodiversity of fish and coral.
• The Blue Lagoon, the large reef fringed sand-floored lagoon along the south side of Lizard, with colours so vivid aquamarine you reckon it must have been photo-shopped.
• Coconut Beach – reef fringed and remote and only reached after a bit of a walk by abseiling down a cliff on a rope that must be climbed back up to get back – not as hard as first thought. The hard part is the ½ Km scramble down a steep slope over big rocks to get to the rope. Disappointing was the amount of plastic stuff of all shapes and sizes washed up on this very remote beach SE facing beach. The beaches on the north side of the island are pristine without plastic flotsam.
• Lizard Island Research Station around the island for a talk and short film – this is run by The Australian Museum and is the most northerly of the GBR research stations.

And we have almost religiously attended the all-important “Table of Knowledge” on the beach most evenings. Also called the bench of bullshit.

Can get a little boisterous, with hangers on until long after sunset and night descends!
A fun social gathering with the odd bit of knowledge shared. Talk here is important local stuff - like the where and how of fishing, electrical power management on boats, best reefs to snorkel and whether or not anyone has seen the green flash just on sunset (perhaps it does happen but not at Lizard).

Q for any readers: Is the green flash just after sunset an urban myth??

   

Highlights of the past 2 weeks:

• ·       Just arriving at Lizard Is – the turning point for our cruise this year – we are now headed south – hopefully once the winds are favourable NE'ers.
• ·       Snorkelling the reefs of Lizard – Watsons Bay and Blue Lagoon especially, superb variety of fish, great corals and hundreds of giant clams  - one reef is nick-named the clam garden
• ·       Visiting the Cod Hole
•       Cliff climbing to Coconut Beach.
•       Meeting a great and diverse bunch of salties at the Table of Knowledge

So now Kirra Kirra is heading south, as the weather allows.



J&J with the Blue Lagoon




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  Yet more of the Bloody Blue lagoon

  
  

  

  And yet more of the Bloody Blue lagoon

  
  

  

  Coconut Beach - for scale check out the 2 people down there

  
  

  

  Getting down the rope to Coconut B

  
  

  

   Coconut Beach trekers
  
  

  
  

  

  Coconut Beach trekers