Friday 19 September 2014

PORT DOUGLAS TO COOKTOWN



S 15o4667’’, E 145o2833’’

  Port Douglas to Cooktown

After friends from ol’ blighty David and Priscilla came aboard, we stocked up at the Port Douglas (PD)  market on fresh foods and comestibles, and sampled the delights of PD’s restaurants. 

Weren't we pleased to depart the marina and PD, two weeks is plenty long enough in one place, and then a short motor-sail out to the Low Isles. Even though these islands get a lot of day-tripper tourist traffic from PD, it really remains a nice place – reasonable coral reef and a lovely island to walk around with a post-card type lighthouse. Saw an enormous painted cray there on the reef – but alas no picture, as my Olympus Tough underwater camera ain't so tough, and has given up after many years’ service.



The following 4-5 days were very calm weather, unusual for up here around PD and Cooktown.
Upside: we took advantage of that calm weather and stopped over at a couple of isolated reefs. Great snorkelling and exploring.
Downside: Had to motor all the way, winds 5Kts and less.


We stopped O/N at Undine Cay /Reef, 

Stripey snapper of keeping size

Light at Pickersgill Cay - low tide. Note reef in foreground

The girls during rough weather (not) - Coral Sea

Getting ready for a snorkel - Undine Cay. Note water clarity


Then on to Pickersgill Cay/Reef for a swim and on to Hope Island. Perfect weather so we stayed a couple of nights at Hope Is. 

On beach - Hope Island

On Hope Island beach- Kirra Kirra in the background

Hope Island beach - Kirra Kirra in the background

Water nymphs

Singular nymph

Bloody Remora again - not a keeper
Remora  = sucker fish, cruise with sharks

Dinner on its way.




Another blow of 25Kts predicted and with little protection we headed into Cooktown - we had a calm sail into that historic town and dropped the pick in the Endeavour River, right in town. It’s the last town at the end of the sealed road going north into Cape York peninsula.

A plethora of monuments marking the spots where Cook’s party landed, brought the  Endeavour ashore to repair the damage sustained from hitting the reef, and the exact spot (presumably) where he had a look out to sea.  Of course we had to do the walk up that hill. The James Cook museum have some excellent stuff from the Endeavour, plus aboriginal weapons and weaving - certainly worth a visit.



The Saturday market at Cooktown was a very low key affair.

Capt Cook - dressed for the tropics?















Old bank building Cooktown.
Some clowns out the front trying to auction it or something. It is for sale!

Ginger flower - not a plastic one

Endeavours anchor - jettisoned to get off the reef. Massive

Canon from the Endeavour - also jettisoned. Recently recovered.

Who says the bride and groom always scrub up well.

Impressive aboriginal spears - Cooktown and Cape York

Boomerangs and woomera - Cooktown museum

After the walk up Grassy Hill and around some croc infested beaches,
a well earned glass.

Yachts on the Endeavour River, Cooktown

Kirra Kirra under Cpt Cook's skirts

The girls were addicted to smelling the frangipani 

Cooktown market - very relaxed just like the town

Cooktown Kiosk - one of the best views in town.
Taken from Kirra Kirra  - to me, on the water is a better view all round






















Our big disappointment at Cooktown was missing the weigh-in for the weekend hog-shoot competition. Well say the locals, it makes a change from fishing and drinking the weekend away!! For overseas readers: Feral pigs a huge problem up here in FNQ.

The winners shot 92 pigs on a nearby cattle property. Some saw shooting the pigs as cheating and preferred to use dogs to pull down the pig before it was despatched with a knife. The “Shootin’ and Fishin’ Are Us” shop in town  sold an elegant line in protective armor for the pig-dogs (protects the throat and chest of the pigdogs that hunt down their tusked quarry in scrub). A beautiful example of form and function design coming together in FNQ.

Top event for September in Cooktown















Jabiru stork - Endeavour River shallows. Largest stork in Australia - up to 1.5 metres tall


The recent croc sighting signs in town at the launching ramp and pier made fishing, the crab-pot setting and even just dingying into shore more interesting. Funny how everyone wanted to sit in the centre of the dinghy.

Caught a couple of Mud Crabs in Cooktown along the mangroves - all
females like this one and a bit small so went back.

The log shows that Kirra Kirra has had no signs of scurvy (too many limes in the evening G&T’s), nor of mal-de-mer (too calm), nor of mutiny (crew too well oiled).


We sadly waved au-revoir to Priscilla and David on the bus back to PD, and watered Kirra Kirra and shopped for an extended stay at Lizard Is. 
Next blog from there probably.


Highlights of the past 2 weeks:
·        Having Priscilla and David aboard – witty repartee aplenty (and no it wasn’t the wine talking)
·        Anchoring on several cays – idyllic and isolated places at any time, especially at night. Not much sand above high water, but the reef provides a reasonably protected anchorage in 10-12 Kts wind
·         Snorkelling the isolated reefs
·        Cooktown –   interesting place with lots to see, and croc spotting

Thursday 4 September 2014

Dunk Is. to Port Douglas



S 16o48.36’’, E 145o4653’’

 

 Dunk Island to Cairns and on to Port Douglas

Tempus fugit and isn't that the truth  – the last 4 weeks have zipped by and I have not had the time to get a blog post done. No really - – really busy, like you would not believe. So very sorry to any disappointed readers –( if there are any ).

We swung  - literally, on the anchor in Brammo Bay at Dunk Is. for 3 nights in increasing swell and increasing discomfort and then decided to head for Fitzroy Island via Mourilyan Harbour a cute little sugar loading very protected anchorage. Wind of 25 Kts so we zipped up to Mourilyan – avg speed 8 Kts with reef – caught another 2 nice mud crabs there.  Crocs abound in this mangrove lined shelter, so careful laying the pots. Awful weather for 2 days – 25-30 Kts and rain! Perfect Queensland one day, schizen-hausen the next. Then in windy blustery conditions sailed to Fitzroy Is only 12 nM ( say 22 Kms in land units). But the harbour there was even worse than Dunk so we didn’t even drop the anchor but hoisted reefed sails and zipped into Cairns at 10+ Kts.
2 tugs plus coastal cargo ship, Mourilyan Hb. Crowded place.

Big goanna - Fitzroy Island

Game fishing boats ready for the comp - Fitzroy Is.

Lion fish - in Cairns marina

 

Cairns - what a great city – plenty of action on the beachfront with lots of live music, a man made lagoon to swim in, Rusty’s is a terrific market for fresh local produce and good restaurants aplenty. Only thing it lacks is a beach – more mud flats with crocs the ever present worry.

Lov ely leaves - Botanical gardens, Cairns

Jo with giant leaves - Botanical gardens, Cairns

Leaf pattern - Botanical gardens, Cairns

Botanical gardens, Cairns

Botanical gardens, Cairns


Note insects on flesh coloured flower
Botanical gardens, Cairns

Bee landing on flower


Botanical gardens, Cairns


Botanical gardens, Cairns


Big Prickels, Botanical gardens, Cairns

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Hired a car and went up to the Atherton Tablelands. Mareeba is where they grow tea and coffee and also a limited amount of chocolate! Mareeba is a fun place and they grow almost everything from strawberries, to sugar cane and mangoes.
 
Giant termite mounds, near Mareeba, FNQ
 

After a week in Cairns we had itchy feet plus the heavy weather had cleared, so we headed out for a few days to Fitzroy Is. , Lt Sudbury Cay and Green Is. Great spots all, but the cay was the pick, we had it to ourselves so serene and with excellent diving. Water clarity superb with good fish and coral. Good walking tracks on Fitzroy Is to the summit and the lighthouse – most walks more a stroll.
Lt Sudbury Cay, FNQ
 
Kirra Kirra at Lt Sudbury Cay
 
Idyllic place - oddles of serentiy


 
 
 
 
 
Another short stay in Cairns then on to Port Douglas – pulled the top out of the head-board (that’s a sailing term) on the main sail coming out of Cairns. Do we go back and get it fixed? No way – so we sailed the 30nM up to PD easily just on the genoa at 6.5-7 Kts. A good rigger in PD fixed it with the new wonder rope dyneema for a very few $$. Also fitted new lower stays on the mast for a quite reasonable sum – 3 broken strands on one lower stay spotted.
Jo, Shellz and John, Lower Isles light house
 

Endurance of the South (RGYC) in a good breeze

Prawn trawlers at rest

Port Douglas would have to be the best holiday place in Australia on the coast. Lots to see and do, great beach (well great for north Queensland where mud flats abound on the mainland), the Daintree and Cape Tribulation, plus an excellent range of fairly priced restaurants. And good coffee! Last time we were here in PD they sounded the crocodile alarm on the beach as a 4 metre croc swam along it. Folks walked on water that day so miracles do still happen. Praise some god or other I suppose.





And then on Saturday 30th Aug. we attended Eleanor and Phil’s wedding in the cute chapel in PD overlooking the water, with a superb reception after in an estate up in the Daintree rainforest. Everything went like clockwork and it was a great family reunion – see photos.


Ready for the wedding - Shellz, John and Jo leave Kirra Kirra
















Lovely bridesmaids

Eleanor and Phil - happy is us

View thru the Port Douglas chapel window

At the reception,  - Mossman Rainforest retreat



Highlights of the last month:

·         Lt Sudbury Cay – idyllic and isolated place

·         Fitzroy Is walks

·         Cairns and all it offers

·         Port Douglas-could live here for 8 months of the year.

·         The Wedding of the Year in PD – my nice niece Eleanor and Phil